Denino's Pizzeria Tavern   

Oh, you've heard the stories: Two-fisted foodies cramming the Staten Island ferry out into the boonies just for a bite of Denino's thin-crust pie; grown men weeping at the taste of it. Well, rest assured they're true, and rumors of Denino's demise have been greatly exaggerated. This place has been here since nearly the Depression. Inside a regular-looking house with little atmosphere, amidst a boisterous and big (bring a book) crowd that ranges from soccer moms with kids celebrating a birthday to dockworkers -- depending on time of day and blood-alcohol level -- the ovens keep the crispy crusts coming. The most frequently ordered item here is an oddly heavy pie of meatballs, onions, and ricotta: like a meatball sub and a lasagna shaken, stirred and dumped onto a pizza. 'The works' is also popular, though here they call it a 'garbage pie.' No pretense there, or anywhere else here.