Devin Tavern   

363 Greenwich St
New York, NY 10013
212-334-7337
www.devintavern.com

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Of all the things that Dylan Thomas did, including lending his name to Bob Dylan and drinking himself to death after nearly 20 whiskies at the Cedar, inspiring a tavern is the least surprising. The Welsh poet is the figurehead at this rustic American tavern, which is as rustic as a pair of new Diesel jeans sold with fabricated holes and wear-and-tear. The space is all wood and exposed brick, and boasts multiple fireplaces, bars, and iron fixtures. Run by the owners and chef of Dylan Prime, Devin (which means "to be poetic" in Welsh) achieves its lyricism through Christopher Dunn's inventive and elegant menu. Sweet corn souffle in a lobster bisque, Westphalia ham and stuffed pork belly are a few of the appetizers. Entrees are heavy on the steak and seafood, with a 16 oz. Kansas City strip and Five Point Farms baby back ribs vying for attention against the likes of a chit wood-grilled Arctic char and a roasted Long Island duck with grilled apples. Despite its pedigree and ambition, the Tribeca spot retains a pub feel, helped along by the casual crowd and Guinness on tap.