Edward's Steakhouse   

239 Luis Munoz Marin Blvd
Jersey City, NJ 07302
201-761-0000
www.edwardssteakhouse.com

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Even if you're not the kind of person to get worked up over an old piece of furniture, it's hard to ignore the wonderful old mahogany bar left over from the 1930's on the ground floor of Edward's Steakhouse. It's an imposing slab with a timeworn aura that you can't fake, built into the kind of building -- a three-story 1890s townhouse -- no one builds anymore. Chef Edward Gozdz, architect of the $41 Kobe beef burger at Chelsea's Old Homestead, brings an old fading glamour to his eponymous meatery. Edward's menu is a throwback to the days when the portly middle straining against a pinstriped vest signified respectability, tight money, and sound credit. You are perfectly free to order anything you like, so long as it is steak: New York sirloin, filet mignon, or porterhouse. Or, choose something equally substantial: lamb shank, rack of lamb, sesame-crusted tuna, or the fish du jour. "I don't want to be arrogant," says Gozdz (actually managing not to sound it, despite stints at the Post House and Cite), "but people tell us we're the best steak, by far, in Jersey City."