Augustino's Restaurant   

This place is the archetypal New York neighborhood Italian restaurant, except for one tiny fact: It's not in New York. Hoboken gets the honor, as owner Buddy Yandoli presides over the festivities, shuttling between kitchen and dining room to clap patrons on the back. (The photos of Yandoli with "Joe D" -- as in DiMaggio -- don't hurt the atmosphere a bit.) Quarters are tight, and you'll get to know fellow diners well enough to eat off each other's plates. Veal with marsala sauce and mushrooms is richer than steak; pasta carbonara teems with delicious bits of pancetta and tasty peas; rotating specials like deep-fried shrimp and veal chops keep things interesting. Don't even think of trying to dine here without a reservation, though -- the small size and extremely loyal clientele ensure you'll need to plan ahead. They don't accept credit cards, either. You've got to like the confidence of a place that knows you'll eat there, even if you have to backtrack 10 blocks to the ATM to get cash. You wouldn't be the first -- or the last.