Lunello's Restaurant   

Walking into LuNello is like entering a time warp. The decor is not even remotely hip and the cuisine is far from nouvelle. This fine-dining restaurant pays no attention to such things. Instead, the look is elegant and the menu consists of classic Italian dishes. The clientele is made up of mostly couples and groups outfitted in 'Sopranos'-style finery. The waitstaff is shockingly competent, reciting specials in detail, offering recommendations, and answering questions about the wine list and the menu. Old favorites like calamari, linguini with fresh clams, and veal chops are consistently excellent, but for a richer experience, try one of the dishes that helped put LuNello on the map: trippa con polenta, a dish of beef tripe in tomato sauce with polenta, or gamberi Portofino, in which sauteed shrimp and prosciutto di Parma luxuriate in a bath of porcini mushrooms, cream, and sherry wine. The pastry chef makes all of the old-school desserts (cannoli, cheesecake, tiramisu) on-site.