Cat & the Custard Cup   

Clearly and unequivocally, this restaurant is not what it appears to be -- but if you can get past the initial confusion, you may well end up joining its sizeable fan club. The dignified architecture and homey decor are deliberately patterned after a Victorian inn, even down to the garden outside and the fireplaces in each dining room. Instead of beef Wellington or fish and chips, though, the place serves contemporary California cuisine. This wasn't always the case, but the owners, who also own the Sonora Cafe in Los Angeles, are nothing if not eclectic. Their menu offers everything from grilled Atlantic salmon to shrimp potstickers to New Zealand venison in wine reduction. It changes often; if you want to know specifics, it's best to call before coming. The extensive, award-winning wine list offers numerous choices to complement every dish. Before or after dinner, enjoy a cocktail -- or a pint -- in the garden or the comfortable lounge. -- Lena Katz