Eastern Pearl Chinese Rstrnt   

Like so many good restaurants in the city, the outer facades leave much to be desired, but one step inside this upscale Chinese eatery and you'll feel like you've entered a serene Oriental sanctuary. Eyes are immediately drawn to the back wall where water cascades down a relief of Chinese lettering spelling ''Eastern Pearl.'' Beautifully appointed tables with fresh flowers, dark-wood furnishings and well-dressed waiters set the scene for a remarkable dining experience, that is once you decide from the dizzying array of menu items -- there are more than 135 dishes from which to choose. The hot and sour soup makes a nice starter, but after that, a host of beef, poultry, pork, seafood, noodle, veggie and fried rice items beckon. The orange beef and Kung Pao chicken will satiate conservative diners, but for a taste of something different, opt for the fillet of fish drowned in a sauce of fermented black beans, onions and garlic. Noodle lovers will appreciate the Cantonese pan-fried version -- order it spicy with chicken and you won't regret it. Dim sum is also offered, but for the uninitiated, pork is used heavily in most of the dishes. The fried pineapple and fried banana are great dessert choices. Lunching here won't crimp your wallet either -- for around $7, you can choose from one of 20 filling entrees, each served with fried rice and salad or soup. Be sure to peer inside the kitchen window to watch chef Charlie Huang weave his culinary magic.