Capogiro Gelateria   

Conventional wisdom in Philadelphia says that "gelato" is made up of water ice and soft ice cream, generously dolloped on hot summer days. But this bright, modern shop at the newly bustling corner of 13th and Sansom is a resounding statement that it's much, much more -- creamier and more succulent than ice cream, with richness so concentrated that one bite is almost as satisfying as a pint of Chubby Hubby. (And even those who are watching their waistlines can partake -- true gelato has half the calories and fat of regular ice cream.) The husband and wife team of John and Stephanie Reitano had the notion to open the shop after a trip to Italy, but the flavors of gelato at Capogiro have a Philly bent to them, thanks to reliance on home-grown ingredients. The flavor spectrum runs the gamut, from bourbon vanilla to avocado, with what's on the menu changing daily; the bitter chocolate, which combines the thick consistency of cake frosting with a rich, sophisticated taste, and the tartly irresistible blood orange are particular standouts. Those whose tastes run a bit warmer can partake of pastries (from Le Bec-Fin and Petit 4) and panini. -- Maura Johnston