Continental Midtown   

Long known in Philadelphia for his ultra-conservative take on restaurateuring, Stephen Starr breaks out of his middle-of-the-road mold with his 12th venture, the fanciful Continental Mid-town. If you go, expect to find yourself smack in the middle of a convergence of Starr groupies, Philly's cutting-edge gadabouts and oh-so-right-now tourists -- all of who no doubt will be drawn like so many sophisticated moths to the bright light of the restaurant's 3D, five-foot-tall olive complete with Plexiglas toothpick and lighted pimiento. The retro-chic style continues inside with faux-leather booths, a sunken lounge, funky, clunky chairs, a rubber bar, and tables with that homey ''frozen tablecloth'' look. Much of the cuisine echoes that of the Mid-town's big sister, the original Continental Restaurant and Martini Bar, while the rest was created anew by executive chef Michael Dean Hazen. Classics to look for include teriyaki filet mignon with wasabi mashed potatoes, beer-battered shrimp, calamari with saffron aioli and black sesame crab cakes. New offerings include macaroni and cheese with lobster, tofu dumplings and Ahi tuna tartare. Of course, the fancy drink menu includes things you've never heard of before but soon won't be able to live without, including the Dean Martini, served with a Lucky Strike and a book of matches.