Estia Restaurant   

John Lois and Pete and Nick Pashalis, the team behind the Pietro's Pizzeria mini-chain, have transformed the coveted spot across from the Academy of Music (most recently Toto) into Estia, an upscale Greek seafood restaurant. The expansive, warmly lit room has low vaulted ceilings that make it feel like a cozy wine cellar in a large Mediterranean villa, complete with antiqued wooden tables and rustic terra cotta floors. An open kitchen bustles in the back, along with a carefully arranged display of vegetables and a bin of fish reclining on packed ice. Fish is the draw here: whole fish, that is, and whatever is available and freshest. Order as much or as little as you like (the menu recommends a rather large one pound per person) from a daily selection that may include pompano or dover sole; simply have it charcoal-grilled. If you prefer a little more complicated cuisine, there are filleted fish dishes prepared with garnishes and sauces. Traditional Greek dishes are well represented in the appetizer or ''mezedes'' category: try spanakopita, charcoal-grilled octopus or tzatziki.