Taco Riendo   

Brought to you by the same family that owns Philadelphia's premier Mexican restaurant, Las Cazuelas, Taco Riendo is the real deal. Look elsewhere for your nachos and jalapeno poppers, here you'll find an assortment of guisados (stews), tasty tortas (sandwiches) made with ham, chorizo or egg, and, of course, tacos, which need no explanation. Well, except perhaps for the tacos al vapor (steamed tacos) which come in exotic beef varieties like tongue, flank and ''beef head.'' For the less daring, tacos are also available in the more basic chicken, steak and chile poblano flavors. Breakfast offerings include tamales and egg burritos. A wide selection of the Technicolor Jarritos brand of soda helps wash everything down. All of the food is prepared at an open counter -- order there and then sit at one of the tables in the small but sunny room, painted a vibrant orange, while you work up the nerve to bite into that beef cheek taco.