Cafe Euro   

Ed Dunlap knows fine dining, and he knows what his customers like. And after years of owning and overseeing Colony, Dormont's supra-fancy black-tie restaurant, he decided to give the place a makeover -- a little less supra-fancy and a little less black-tie. Not that he's watered-down Colony's exquisite menu or cut back on exceptional service. But the reincarnated Cafe Euro requires no tuxedo, just some fashionable slacks and an adventurous palate. A hip deco interior awaits the discriminating diner, complete with stained glass and pastel tones. The Old World veneer (which was getting a little stuff-shirt) has transformed into a trendy spot for receptions, exotic dates and CEO business meetings, where chicken pine-nut salad, 14-ounce veal cuts and tender grilled salmon are staples of the four-star Cafe Euro diet. Topped off with a port wine or an espresso torte, a meal here is worth the longish jaunt from urban Pittsburgh -- and worth far beyond Euro's shockingly reasonable prices. From the folks who brought you Pittsburgh's finest, LeMont, Euro is a glamorous experience, with or without the bow tie.