Mad Mex   

In the movies, the Mexican cantina is usually dark, moody and brawl-prone. A mustachioed, suspicious-looking character stands behind the bar, wiping a glass. The regulars look up when a newcomer wanders in. Mad Mex riffs on this dusty, Old West motif -- it's dark and smoky, setting aside the bright, candied colors of more upbeat Mexican restaurants. But here the resemblance ends: Mad Mex serves some of the most mouthwatering tacos, burritos and quesadillas in the region. The music tends toward the rock/pop/house variety, and the full-bodied margaritas come in a dozen flavors and styles. If you're accustomed to Taco Bell or the local gordita joint, Mad Mex makes a gritty-but-classy alternative. The chef loads up courses with pinto beans, dollops of sour cream and scoops of spicy rice -- all elegantly arranged on colorful plates. Mad Mex may be in Oakland, but it's as close as Pittsburgh gets to the Mexican border.