El Gaucho   

This dark and elegant steakhouse is romantically lit with bursts of flame from the huge meat grills and tableside flambe service. Start your meal with the wicked shrimp appetizer; its heat will prepare your palate for the fire to come. The tuxedoed waiters hover nearby, prepared to execute a dramatic performance that will result in a complicated Caesar salad or sublime bananas Foster. But the real stars of the show are the beef entrees, from the chateaubriand for two, to the sensible top sirloin. The meat is tender, rich and satisfying. If beef isn't your bag, try the flaming lamb shish kebab or Cornish game hen; both arrive at the table on a silver saber. The wine list needs some work -- it seems a bit limited and overpriced -- and some of the side dishes arrive cold and uninspired. Vegetarians can choose between a roasted vegetable platter or nothing. Old school, boys club and expense account are just a few phrases that come to mind here, especially when taking a gander at the prices. But judging by the success of this restaurant's older sibling in Seattle, it's bound to become a Portland tradition. -- Randy Riggs