Papa Haydn   

Papa Haydn's fame grew with its desserts. The first place in Portland to make stars of sweets, gradually the two restaurants expanded to serve lunches and dinners. With everyone being more conscious of fat-intake, the desserts, which are still stunning, don't have quite the magnetism of old. Besides, many other places have imitated the outstanding offerings, including autumn meringue, boccana dolce and the great ganaches. But there's still plenty of allure, and the crowds gawking at the dessert cases will give the most virtuous resolution some pause. Even tarts and semifreddos and ice creams are worth a trip. The bistro meals are quite enticing as well. The pastas are fine, especially the salmon varieties, which might feature creme fraiche and shallots with the nicely cooked fish. Salads are good, and the lunch sandwiches are always unusual: a croque monsieur will take you back to France. This branch of the Papa Haydn pair is the more crowded, since it's in the heart of Portland people-watching territory. You may have to wait on line for some while, especially for a Saturday lunch.