Fratelli Ristorante & Bar Bue'   

Having arrived in the Pearl District shortly before the area went from seedy old warehouses to upscale urban scene, this inviting restaurant draws diners citywide. They offer a seasonally changing menu of nouveau Italian cuisine. The space is post-industrial with a long and narrow layout, giving it the feel of a something you've discovered by accident down a long dark avenue in Italy. Candlelight, an open kitchen and warm ambience furthers the allure. The menu changes about every six to eight weeks, so while a favorite entree may vanish, something equally delicious always replaces it. The bread is baked daily on-site. Don't miss the bruschetta. Try it topped with roast peppers and fromage blanc or marinated organic tomatoes and horseradish. The arugula salad with beets, "bleu d' auvergne" cheese, honey and lavender is deeply satisfying. Small plates like gnocchi with house cured pork, fennel marmalade and balsamic vinegar, and tagliatelli pasta with proscuitto and asparagus - are filling. Typical entrees include lasagna with bechamel sauce, housemade chicken sausage with stone fruit and arugula, and hanger steak with olive oil poached potatoes and crispy capers sauce. The gelato is a menu regular, but order the cassis soaked brioche summer "pudding" with seasonal berries if it's available. -- Jo Ostgarden