Aubergine   

The beautiful people of San Diego flock to this downtown dance and dining delight to soak up the fun, food and fabulous martinis. The fact that the waiters' uniforms are provided by Calvin Klein should give you the first clue about what Aubergine is all about. The second clue? The long cylinders of Scandinavian water you feel you ought to order just to be like everyone else -- to taste something pure before something devilishly good. Light or late-night nibblers will get a kick out of the small but exquisite appetizers. The sinful sausage cannelloni is a pure, buttery luxury. Shrimp and oysters are good too and presented immaculately. The salads are everything a salad should be: light, interesting and every bit as tasty as they look. For entrees, you can choose from seafood or grill menus. Be warned, the sea bass with lobster mash could start a dangerous and expensive addiction. The duck breast and leg of lamb for two options are hearty and homely, carved tableside. Saturday's dinner and club special is great if you want to impress out-of-town guests or new girl/boyfriend. If you reserve by 8:30PM, for $30 you get a three-course tour of the menu and will be grinning smugly from your table as throngs of clubbers line up outside, pleading with the bouncers, as the late-night scene comes to life. Don't forget to dress to impress.