Roy's   

Price Per Person:$50* Blue Plate Special: Roy's signature culinary creations are teriyaki hibachi grilled salmon, Roy's "Original" blackened ahi and Szechwan spiced baby back pork ribs. The Dish: Before gaining world acclaim as a pioneering chef, Roy Yamaguchi started his first restaurant in Honolulu in 1988. Returning to childhood memories of the feelings and flavors of Hawaii, he blended the sophisticated European techniques he was trained in with familiar Pacific Rim ingredients. Although the original concept remains, the menus change daily as each local chef is encouraged to add to the creativity that made "Hawaiian Fusion" fun and famous. Each Roy's has its own look and feel, including a distinct menu. That's because there's a genuine emphasis on using only the freshest local ingredients in addition to the fish flown in daily from -- where else? -- Honolulu. As for Roy himself, he's garnered a room full of awards including the ultimate James Beard Best Chef Award. He also stars as the lighthearted host of the PBS series 'Hawaii Cooks with Roy Yamaguchi.' Roy's thriving restaurant chain now stretches from Tokyo to New York. Appetizers like chicken spring rolls and lobster pot stickers draw raves, but given their price and diminutive size, they can set you back about $2 a bite. Pizza topped with a range of delicacies like smoked salmon is equally good and a lot less expensive. The entrees change daily, but Roy's "Original" blackened ahi is always featured and always a standout, as is teriyaki hibachi grilled Atlantic salmon. While there's plenty of beef, pork and chicken on the menu, it's the fish that truly sets Roy's apart. The Atmosphere: The decor is casual but elegant -- linen tablecloths, spacious dining rooms, a covered outdoor patio and Roy's signature exhibition kitchen. The lighting is subdued and walls are hung with colorful artwork. Yet, the restaurants are not identical, insuring that Roy's doesn't make a cookie-cutter impression. The customers run to all ages and dress in everything from shorts and t-shirts to business suits. It's usually a hang-loose, friendly atmosphere, with all the joviality tending to ratchet up the volume a bit. -- Cecil Tuck *Approximate price of a complete dinner