Hotel Biron   

Characterized by owner Patrick Panella, as a "proletariat wine bar for people who like good food and good wine," Hotel Biron's rich flavor balances simplicity with sophistication. Situated on a quiet street, Hotel Biron is tucked away between the clamor of Market and the hubbub of Hayes. Once inside, you'll feel as if you've been transported to the posh Tribeca neighborhood of Manhattan with the exposed brick face and Italian limestone plaster walls conspiring to give this dimly lit haunt built-in character. The Biron's extensive wine list features 85 different vintages to choose from, though adventurous tasters can inexpensively explore the 35 bottles offered by the glass. The food is far from typical bar fare with a menu that boasts 9 different cheeses, 4 types of caviar, 3 kinds of truffles and various olives and sundries. While enjoying a generously apportioned glass of vino, be sure to check out the various works of art that co-owner Caroline Sanders has thoughtfully selected for display. The Hotel Biron is generally not too crowded, but the establishment's impeccable taste and enticing atmosphere may change all that before too long. -- Benjamin McKay