Burgermeister   

In Cole Valley, even the burger joints are cozy, thoughtfully decorated and low-key. Burgermeister serves up generous Niman Ranch patties with a wheelbarrow full of fries, fresh condiments and fluffy yellow buns in a slick, warmly lit cafeteria that practically hollers "genteel yuppie." Lemon garlic fries are pungent but uniquely savory, the milkshakes are divinely thick and Burgermeister (wisely) serves beer. The juicy burgers are delicious, and obviously prepared with great care. The only (minor) flaw at this neighborhood spot is that it refuses to get sloppy. Nobody can fault the ingredients or the preparation, but what do you do with a chili burger that doesn't ooze? -- Julie Ross