Farallon   

People walk in to Farallon just to have a gander at the place: Inspired by the building's former life as an indoor swimming pool, local designer Pat Kuleto turned it into a watery dream world. Glowing jellyfish lights dangle over the bar, the Nautilus Room is spiral-shaped and the main dining room combines the old pool's vaulted ceilings with mosaics and huge blown-glass lamps. The decor and Union Square location attract scads of tourists, but Farallon -- which seats over 300 -- can handle the crowds. The food's a splurge for the wallet and the waistline. Start with oysters on the half shell, or dive into the iced "indulgence" platter of whatever's in season, from periwinkles to lobster. The kitchen's good with French touches, especially velvety sauces ladled over tender fish (try anything with the delectably rich and simple beurre rouge). A number of plates please the landlubbers, like rabbit three ways. It's not the most creative food in town, but it's well prepared. If you're on a budget, order appetizers to share and ask your smooth waiter to send them out separately -- house-smoked salmon and perfectly chewy fried squid are good bets. Or go all-out with a tasting menu paired with generous pours of mostly well-selected wine. The wine list is huge and expensive, with a good deal of small bottles (a good way to try pricier wines). The artisanal cheese course is tempting, but most go straight to the sinful desserts, creatively rich concoctions that remind you that this is a special occasion. -- Julie Ross