Acquerello Restaurant   

1722 Sacramento St
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-567-5432
www.acquerello.com

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Though consistently ranked among the most romantic, best Italian and best splurge spots in San Francisco, many consider Acquerello their little secret. Maybe it's the church-like hush in the dining room, its walls covered in soft watercolors ("acquerello" means watercolor). Maybe the buzz always goes to the French and California places. Who needs buzz when you've got food? Acquerello's changing menu is inspired by the rich dishes of Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, all lightened to delicacy. Pastas might include parsnip-potato gnocchi with a rich wild boar ragu, or a very San Francisco green onion fettuccine with Dungeness crab in a sweet garlic-white wine sauce. Entrees are equally inventive, from daubing simple steamed halibut with truffle butter to drizzling roast loin of veal in an elegant herb sauce. Each dish is true to the culinary spirit of Italy. Try the tomato-bread salad if it's listed. Practically humming with life, the vibrant flavors will amaze you when you realize the dish is merely ripe tomato, fresh basil and stale bread. The wonderfully long wine list matches the menu. Splurgers should try anything from Angelo Gaja or one of the super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Tiganello) or choose from the wine of the day list. -- Julie Ross