Delfina Restaurant   

While other dot-com-era buzz restaurants retrench or go under, Delfina keeps on as always. That may be because despite its Mission District location and a dining room that's still full every night, Delfina is just your basic fantastic neighborhood trattoria. Combining pure ingredients with perfect technique, and decorated with edgy, arty whim, Delfina is the best mid-priced meal in the city. Reservations won't come easy, you'll be crammed in, and you may wait up to 20 minutes for your space to clear. But the hip staff is warm and helpful and the person at the other end of the phone actually checks for cancellations. The seasonal menu changes daily, but you can expect to see grilled calamari. Caramelized outside and firm in texture, the squid shares a plate with white beans, grilled frisee and fresh spinach leaves. Another starter, of thick-sliced heirloom tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and basil, explodes with juicy flavor. Pastas rely on a few terrific ingredients. Ravioli filled with braised short ribs and served simply with the braising liquid is a carnivorous treat. Entrees are almost as good. Roasted Liberty duck has crispy skin and deep, perfumey flavor; grilled flatiron steak is so exuberant with meaty flavor it inspired reveries. Save room for the lovely cheese course, a sampling of four Italian cheeses paired with fruit. Staff is schooled in walking diners through the good wine list.