Mecca Sf   

Mecca's a great place for an expensive dinner party with very pretty people. Lots of tables arrayed around a gorgeous central bar -- plus the lower Castro location and nightly music -- spell crowding, noise and some awkward seating options. Although it has a fun feel, recent improvements in service and menu mean Mecca has outgrown the hipster scene somewhat -- it's too bad you can't get a quiet table for two. What you can get is a drink. Especially good is the gimlet, though many swear by the sour-sweet (and blue) Mecca Drop. They also serve ultra-smooth Hangar One vodka, distilled with a touch of viognier wine grape. The revamped wine list is remarkably strong, with an especially nice selection of flinty Loire whites, which go well with several of the seafood dishes. The food, too, is surprisingly good. Start with oysters and Champagne (they're always on the menu, and the vibe demands them). Proceed to appetizers such as moist seared dayboat scallops with earthy black trumpet mushrooms and slightly bitter fava puree -- or messy, addictive smoked spare ribs. Entrees also span a wide range, from offerings like a bright-tasting, herb-crusted grouper to a toothsome strip steak with a fantastic pecan and potato croquette. The kitchen has a thing for combining poultry with fruit in various forms -- it's a matter of taste, but the fowl itself is juicy, with nicely crisp skin. If the warm Edam cheese souffle is on the menu, get it (you can't go wrong with any dessert, but the souffle is just magic). Servers are very well versed in cocktails and wines; though the clubby ambience makes them seem a little out of their element, they seem to be enjoying themselves -- as will you.