Memphis Minnie's BBQ   

Were you to picture the best barbecue joint in the Bay Area, you might envision some Oakland hole-in-the-wall that looks like it's been there for dozens of years, with recipes and traditions jealously guarded by a single family down the generations, tracing back to the deep South. Memphis Minnie's blasts through any such romantic notion: The bright-red, squeaky-clean lower Haight spot is run by an expatriate New Yorker. It's named after Memphis, but a look at the menu shows Carolina mustard sauce, Texas red sauce, Kansas City ribs, Carolina pulled pork and Santa Maria tri-tip. You can even buy your own souvenir T-shirt here. Yet the brisket at Minnie's is smoked for 16 hours, and its slightly burnt outside and fork-tender inside is hands-down the best in the Bay. There's a little more competition for the title of "best pork ribs," and though places like Flint's might have an edge, Minnie's hold its own with succulent, juicy bones. And where else can non-red-meat eaters go and find several different options, from chicken to smoked turkey to salmon? They're all done very well, as is a decadent Frito pie and a creamy banana pudding. The sides are uneven, though. Beans and sweet potatoes are fantastic and potato salad is passable, while watery greens, flavorless macaroni and cheese and disturbingly dry corn bread need work. But it's all about the meat anyway, and the two sauces (both served on the side, as they should be) are equally good. Debate the merits of each with your dining partners if you must, but odds are the conversation will be limited to "Oh man, that's good."