Minako Organic Japanese Rstrnt   

Though you'll have to brave a seedy section of Mission Street to get here, it's well worth the trip. One taste of Minako's sushi and you'll never opt for the trendier joints in town. Try the spicy tuna roll or the grilled salmon with wasabi sauce if you want a taste of the house specialties. Free-range organic chicken is always on the menu and served grilled with a light teriyaki flavor. This place is a vegetarian's dream -- the fried tofu katsu is served with thick layers of blanched spinach, and the green salad comes slathered in ginger dressing and brimming with fresh organic veggies. Everything right down to the sesame seed-and-lotus root garnish that accompanies each plate is at its freshest. There's a lot on the menu to wade through, so take your time. Practice restraint -- portions are larger here than at most Japanese restaurants. The moment you step inside Minako, you feel like you've been invited to someone's home. Wood and bamboo accents compliment the small dining room. Plan on sitting close to your dining neighbors, who run the gamut from aging hippies to Prada- wearing yuppies. Though this restaurant is consistently crowded, there never seems to be a long wait for a table. The owner, who often comprises the wait staff, is helpful and patient. -- Ana Schwartzman