Saigon Sandwich Shop   

These days it's trendy to note the French influence on Vietnamese cooking, especially at upscale restaurants. But Vietnamese culture is mixed with French in all sorts of ways. One of the best examples is the banh mi, a sandwich that's essentially a French baguette stuffed with Vietnamese fixings. But it's not quite as simple as ''you got your chocolate in my peanut butter'' -- these sandwiches come with a smear of French pate, while the bread contains a touch of rice flour. The pate shares space with Asian-spiced roast pork, five-spice chicken or meatballs with cilantro, carrots and mayonnaise, making for a scrumptious jumble of flavors, served up quickly. Of several banh mi shops in the Tenderloin, the best is tiny Saigon Sandwich Cafe. You'll recognize it by the counter line, a busy mix of residents of Vietnamese descent and food-lovers of all ethnicities. Order with or without the traditional pate and mayo; if it's not too busy, ask for a recommendation of the other hand-made treats. Also called banh, the Saran-wrapped bundles on the counter come with both savory and sweet fillings. Try the sticky rice banh filled with banana for dessert. The best part: The hearty banh mi are all under $3. -- Julie Ross