Kingfish Cafe   

Eager and patient devotees line up for a table in this classy, coolly atmospheric pair of rooms, where the Coaston sisters have been dishing up inventive southern classics since 1997. Servers are down-home courteous, and so lithe it's hard to believe any of them actually eat here. In photos enlarged and sepia-toned, great grand-relations look down from the high walls like guardian angels, as if to insure that everyone leaves satisfied. Kansas City ribs, griddled catfish, crab cakes and the very popular buttermilk fried chicken with collard greens can warm up the soggiest Seattle evening, and don't be put off by the precious names: dig into Miss Choo Choo's Company's Comin' Rib Eye or Kissing Cousin's Lamb and Rice and you'll feel like one of the family. Sweets like coconut cake, strawberry shortcake and red velvet cake with buttercream frosting may prove irresistible -- just don't tell your cardiologist. -- Ginny Morey