Le Gourmand Restaurant   

The effusive and charming Bruce Naftaly presides over this sweetly romantic, country-Gallic retreat sequestered from surrounding residences in the historically Scandinavian bastion of Ballard. The restaurant's enduring success is due to numerous factors, which include the thriving kitchen garden out back, a commitment to seeking out the best and freshest ingredients the region has to offer, breathtaking stock reductions, and the fact that Naftaly absolutely, positively loves what he's doing. From starters like shrimp mousseline, nettle soup and rabbit-liver pate to main courses such as roast duckling with black current sauce and halibut with chanterelles, diners will feel richly satisfied after their prix fixe extravaganza. Sara Lavenstein, Naftaly's wife, is a gifted pastry chef who crafts profiteroles and creme brulee to die for. Prices are high, but most agree that meals here are well worth the indulgence. Dedicated foodies should sign up for Naftaly's cooking 'classes,' usually offered at the end of the month: Students watch him work his magic for a couple of hours and then sup on the results, complete with fine wine. -- Ginny Morey