Edina Grill   

OK, we're at 50th and France now, not Hortonville, and the term ''grill'' is going to mean something a little different than in the boonies. If you mention ''caramelized'' to the cook at a rural roadside eatery, he'll give you a strange look. At the Edina Grill, you're talking everyday comfort-food jargon, and welcome to it. The meals at this before-or-after-anything location are more a treat than a necessity, because standards like burgers and fries or fish and chips are given new and better personalities. The moderate price range of the menu selections doesn't reflect the quality of the food or preparation, and even this restaurant's grilled cheese sandwich helps restate the '50s diner notion. Some items step just outside usual diner expectations, such as the bacon Gorgonzola risotto (with caramelized onions), but these are pleasant surprises. Beer and wine is available for grownups, and a kid-friendly atmosphere is evident from breakfast to bedtime. The central Edina address may have a lot to do with the restaurant's style, and there is a lot to do around this intersection, including high-end shopping that produces similar appetites. A greasy-spoon wouldn't work here. Avoid the neighborhood if you're Yuppiephobic -- otherwise, look for a cool, retro storefront next to the Edina Theater marquee, and a spacious, inviting seating area of booths and tables once you enter.