Little Fountain Cafe   

A few steps below the frantic nightlife scene on Adams Morgan's main drag, there is a quiet, dimly lit, intimate dining room hiding in plain view. The Little Fountain Cafe is unlike the rest of the neighborhood, prizing romance over rowdiness. With more and more regulars seeking it out, reservations are a must on weekends and a good idea most other times. The menu changes seasonally, but retains a theme of straightforward dishes prepared with a creative hand that clearly respects French and Asian tastes. The menu might list all the American staples -- steak, pork, salmon, tuna, pasta -- but it only hints at what will arrive. The mundane-sounding roasted chicken, for instance, arrives cooked and seasoned to juicy perfection -- it is an explosion of tastes. The risotto, often such a plain side dish, is a mix of duck, cherry, mascarpone cheese and onion. Hearty vegetarian options are on the entree menu and among the eclectic appetizer choices. The warm summer rolls are a favorite starter, even for those who like their meat cooked rare. The crowd tends to be older than is typical in the neighborhood, with few club clothes on display -- instead it's mostly casual to business neat. The waitstaff is reserved, the centerpiece fountain tinkles, and the votive candles flicker. The only hint of chaos is the moving blur in the front window. -- Janice D'Arcy