Hank's Oyster Bar   

Chef Jamie Leeds, an alum of New York City's Union Square Cafe and more recently, Logan Circle's 15 ria, struck out on her own to create Hank's Oyster Bar. Her Dupont Circle restaurant is named after her father, who loved to fish, and styled after the oyster bars made famous in cities like San Francisco and Boston. The dining room is about as tiny as a sandbox -- 65 seats -- so be prepared for a wait. In the summer, a front patio adds 20 more seats, but there are still lines at prime time. Beach-inspired plates include an overstuffed lobster roll, a bucket of steamed mussels, and lots of fried seafood -- from fried calamari and popcorn shrimp with remoulade to a fried oyster po'boy. Seasonal specials such as fried Ipswich clams, shad roe and soft shell crabs pop up periodically. Fans of 15 ria will find Leeds' "meat and two" specials. On any given night you might find a Kobe flatiron steak, roast duck, smothered pork chops or braised short ribs; all are served with a choice of two sides, like Leeds' famous onion rings and mac 'n' cheese, or Old Bay potato wedges. For dessert, the table gets a dish of good chocolate -- on the house. -- Ann Limpert